Zac Posen Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

“The show is about glamour, elegance, and craft,” Zac Posen said right before he presented his spring 2013 collection at Avery Fisher Hall Sunday evening. 

Another word that comes to mind: restraint. Posen’s hand has become lighter and lighter over the past two or three seasons; though there were a few instances when he could have chosen just one trick (either an off-the-shoulder fold or a corset on a duchesse satin evening dress, but maybe not both), he generally wasn’t trying to show too many of his skills—pleating, pin tucking, embroidery—all on one look. And the result was soft and pretty.

But back to the glamour. Posen’s inspirations this season were American swans of yesteryear—C. Z. Guest, Grace Kelly, Brenda Frazier. Meanwhile, the swans, if that’s the proper word, of today were occupying his front row: Alexa Chung, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, Lily Kwong. (He also looked to the designers who have dressed them, then and now, like Norman Norell, James Galanos, Charles James, and Oscar de la Renta.)

Posen’s theory is that these women are getting ever more dressed up for events, so he’s taken it upon himself to keep them in entry-making looks. For spring, you’ll see a corseted tulle “futuristic Degas” cocktail dress, a jade-hued satin-bodiced tulle ball dress, and a floral showstopper with a chiffon-over-organza-over-taffeta skirt (that’s the craft Posen was talking about). And Coco Rocha appeared last in the show wearing a tiered white ball dress (calling all society brides). But day wasn’t neglected. He also made several flare-skirted chiffon looks. Posen’s women, he says, “find joy and power in dressing.” Here they’ll surely find a bit of both.

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Zac Posen Fall-Winter 2012-2013 Backstage

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Zac Posen - New York Fall 2012

Zac Posen Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
Ten years ago to the day, Style.com covered Zac Posen's first big New York show. Our reviewer then said that his dresses "pushed the notion of glamour to the extreme." That's not a bad description of what he did tonight at Lincoln Center's David H. Koch Theater with a new collection of sculpted skirtsuits and gala gowns. Posen has had his fair share of ups and downs in his decade-long career. He's in the midst of another reinvention, one that's found him focusing on what's called "occasion dressing" in the biz. It was fitting that Dita Von Teese—a woman who turns every outfit into an event—was posing for photographers from her perch in the front row.

Posen gave his Fall collection a Japanese theme. There were peony jacquards, Tokyo reds, and Imperial blues on his program. One model carried a bejeweled, pagoda-shaped minaudière. For the most part the craftsmanship was unassailable, but the dressiness of the clothes tended to come off old-fashioned and costumey, especially on the outfits that featured oversize obis in kimono prints. The audience, however, did perk up a few times toward the end: an alabaster jacquard cocktail number and a gold duchesse satin bustier dress with a blossoming skirt had a simplicity that gave them a youthful kick. As for drama, nothing beat a strapless silk faille gown in midnight blue.
By Nicole Phelps via: style.com

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