Missoni Fall 2012 RTW

Apologies for stating the obvious, but the weather in Milan has been glorious these last few days. So, although Missoni never could have known that in late February it’d be warm enough to stage the fall show al fresco, it would have been lovely if they had. It would have also suited the theme of the collection quite nicely which, as Angela Missoni explained during a preview, was about “a strong girl with a wild side who wants to fuse herself with nature.”

There is always an independent spirit at the heart of a Missoni collection, and this season the rock in that girl’s roll was more an actual stone as opposed to The Stones. Everything sent down the runway had an earthy thread, quite literally, woven through it: A straight, knee-length skirt was knit in a pattern resembling tree bark, long-sleeved shirts had the color and markings of river rocks, and one fiery orange evening dress had a thick trim of beading that was intended to look like oxidation or as if some glittering, glamorous organism had attached itself to the piece. The accessories took a similar path. Giant quartz pendants on gold collars were there “to protect her and make her part of the universe,” Missoni said, while the cool, tall boots had leather backs and stacked heels that were stamped to look arboreal. (If you were wondering what role the sleeveless, latex mock turtlenecks played, they were there to evoke water.)

What was most appealing was the long, lean silhouette, strongest in the calf-length coats that polished all the roughness. Many had unfinished fur collars (almost like pelts) and embroidery fuzzily fused with the suede. That sewing technique was repeated on body-skimming dresses so that it appeared as if they were being overtaken by some untamed element. In the end it added up to clothes that looked, well, civilized.

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Missoni - Milan Spring-Summer 2012 - Backstage

AFTER the theatre of Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni provided quite the serene treat this afternoon with a collection held alfresco – but, entitled Sunrise Birds, that didn’t mean the Missoni girl was any less up for a party than Dolce's. She is.

The Missoni muse next summer is, we were told, a free spirit, charming and spontaneous – and Margherita Missoni wafting around in a draped ochre dress to greet her guests was the perfect example. 

"I like the idea of the free spirit woman. It’s not the gypsy thing, she’s a modern bohemian, she’s still sexy and contemporary," said Vogue’s Fran Burns. Indeed, where Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci went all gypsy-inspired on us, Missoni went more flamenco with frills adorning every edge and hip and neckline – they came on swimwear, on blazers and to create swathes around sheerly knitted dresses.

It was blue in every sense – from ink and aqua to royal and cerulean. Knits hung loosely off shoulders to echo the bias cuts and asymmetric designs beneath – some knitted in such bright yellows they looked like pineapples (and given the foody themes emerging in Milan this week, may well have been). 

But aside from frills, there were tassels and handkerchief hems of vivid scarf prints – a strong trend to have emerged thus far – and not just worn one at a time, layered up around the neck and trailing behind. Sheer and summer appropriate, this was a collection made in mind for staying out all night in. The colors, too, reflected this party girl spontaneous spirit – bright magenta, lime, orange, yellow and green. 

Not to be outdone by the boldness of the clothes above were the shoes – adorned in plastic flowers and with heels of plexiglass. "The shoes and bags were really beautiful, as were the accessories," added Fran.

A special mention should also go to the very massive earrings.

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