Salvatore Ferragamo - Milan Spring-Summer 2012 - Details

Mood/Style:
"discover the diva in you", seems to be saying Massimiliano Giornetti, Salvatore Ferragamo’s designer. Touching on the Maison’s historic prints, he selects the ones with jungle and tropical motifs, elaborating them in strong and sensual hues. 

He creates chromatic harmonies in nuances or in contrasting colors and ties bright silks to chokers, drapes and curls evoking the emotions of a trip, of a warm and sensual summer. 

The outfits are chic and animated by a series of cuts and lacing around the neck or at the waist, creating asymmetric hems and opening slits on the bare skin. An alluring, mature sensuality never verging on excess, but which delivers everything in the hands of a strong woman who loves wearing colors

Lengths:
to the knee and mid, maxi for the evening

Colors:
red, magenta, deep scarlet, pink, orange, turquoise, blue, cobalt, purple, gold, sand, kaki

Materials:
silk twill, printed chiffon, silk, lurex, embroideries, baguettes and micro-sequins, lacquered mesh, laminated chiffon

Shapes:
enveloping mermaid-like. One-shoulder and strapless dresses, with necklines and sarong-like lacing. Wide pants worn with big-shouldered cropped jackets, in masculine-inspired fabrics, veering on bright colors. Safari jackets, fluid duster coats and loose pants with leather draped fastening

Accessories:
sandals in multicolored leather strips with golden mirror heel. Different-sized bags: round, bucket, envelope versions in monochromatic or multicolored leather, suede and python. Also with contrasting color ribs. Evening clutches with metallic edge, thin leather belts. Earrings, charms and bangles in the collection colors
by Patrizia Gatti via: vogue.it

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Roberto Cavalli - Milan Spring-Summer 2012 - Details

Mood/Style:
the Florentine designer dresses the woman in gold and black lace and highlights her femininity with plays on transparency. It opens with a series of suits and dresses, entirely in gold, with flouncy hems thanks to embroidered pleats in different fantasy printed fabrics. Within the collection, the perfect tailoring of the coats and the baroque richness of the prints or the preciseness of the embroidery come to a meeting point. The contaminations continue with semi-transparent lace combined with printed muslin bands in long dresses. And it finishes with a series of long lace dresses that are completely embroidered in pearls and sequins

Length:
knee-length and maxi

Colori:
black, gold, cream, pink, yellow, orange

Fabrics:
silk, printed chiffon, tulle, lace, leather, silk muslin, python, crocodile

Shapes:
linear silhouettes that follow the body without emphasizing it are often dynamic at the bottom thanks to pleated and embroidered folds or the cut on the bias. Both the jackets and the long blazers that reach the hips have pronounced shoulders. The tunic dress is amplified with a Charleston effect. Fitted or straight trousers with side stripes

Accessories:
new square-shaped Florence bags in crocodile, nude and black, with double handles and gold-plated metal locks; patent leather pumps with sculptured heels or wedges; crocodile pumps or those covered by reptile netting; little strass crowns


Patrizia Gatti via:  vogue.it

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Missoni - Milan Spring-Summer 2012 - Backstage

AFTER the theatre of Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni provided quite the serene treat this afternoon with a collection held alfresco – but, entitled Sunrise Birds, that didn’t mean the Missoni girl was any less up for a party than Dolce's. She is.

The Missoni muse next summer is, we were told, a free spirit, charming and spontaneous – and Margherita Missoni wafting around in a draped ochre dress to greet her guests was the perfect example. 

"I like the idea of the free spirit woman. It’s not the gypsy thing, she’s a modern bohemian, she’s still sexy and contemporary," said Vogue’s Fran Burns. Indeed, where Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci went all gypsy-inspired on us, Missoni went more flamenco with frills adorning every edge and hip and neckline – they came on swimwear, on blazers and to create swathes around sheerly knitted dresses.

It was blue in every sense – from ink and aqua to royal and cerulean. Knits hung loosely off shoulders to echo the bias cuts and asymmetric designs beneath – some knitted in such bright yellows they looked like pineapples (and given the foody themes emerging in Milan this week, may well have been). 

But aside from frills, there were tassels and handkerchief hems of vivid scarf prints – a strong trend to have emerged thus far – and not just worn one at a time, layered up around the neck and trailing behind. Sheer and summer appropriate, this was a collection made in mind for staying out all night in. The colors, too, reflected this party girl spontaneous spirit – bright magenta, lime, orange, yellow and green. 

Not to be outdone by the boldness of the clothes above were the shoes – adorned in plastic flowers and with heels of plexiglass. "The shoes and bags were really beautiful, as were the accessories," added Fran.

A special mention should also go to the very massive earrings.

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